6 days, 5 concerts, 4 hotels, 3 cities, 2 beaches, 1 baton!

Sri Lanka's 1st WOMAD a massive success!

Text by Ashanti OMkar
Pictures by Akin Falope (www.aworan.net)




Sri Lanka - a land like no other - the tagline from the tourist board, for this island paradise, sadly cursed by a wronged ancient queen, Kuweni, claims folklore. Its man-made war and more recently, the Tsunami, have hit its major income, tourism. Many months after the destruction, with a lot of regeneration underway, festivals like the postponed WOMAD have kicked off to much success, promoting the country at its best. Some of the highlights of beautiful Lanka are its lush greenery, stunning beaches and resorts; its spiritual and holistic retreats; sparkling gemstones; artistic handicrafts; sumptuous and varied food - including exotic fruits and spices; its world renowned tea and of course its welcoming people who greet with “Ayubowan” (May you live long). With a plethora of colonial influences in its architecture and roads, the country’s cultural triangle of Colombo, Kandy and Negambo are perfect settings for festivals. Of course, war torn Jaffna is also said to have untouched beaches and Galle, one of WOMAD’s original settings had to sadly be discarded, due to the Tsunami.

 
                           
                              
With the World Spice Summit also having just finished, Sri Lanka again flies high with its cultural takeover, by showcasing the amazing spicy, flavourful cuisine of the land in a week long festival at its best eateries, featuring their best chefs. With 90% of the world’s favourite fragrant spice, cinnamon, coming from this beautiful island, Sri Lanka triumphs with its export of tea and spices - no wonder its people are so warm! Classy and vibrant hotels and restaurants, street vendors selling clean food, designer boutiques for intricate jewellery (pure gold and silver infused with brightly coloured gems), handicrafts and exclusive clothes are all abundant, as is Sri Lanka’s amazing musical & percussive heritage.
 

                              


WOMAD, World Of Music, Arts and Dance, is the brainchild of world music exponent Peter Gabriel and has gained popularity all over the world, from the beaches in Canary Islands, to England’s very own original Rivermead venue in Reading and now having possibly had Sri Lanka’s biggest concerts commanding over 100,000 people per night of the free Galle Face weekender! Musicians from all over the world come to perform under one huge festival banner, uniting all the people of the host country and also encouraging the all vital tourism along the way. WOMAD chose well to host its 1st Sri Lankan festival in 2005 and may there be many more, chant the audiences!

 

Day 0 - “We’re going directly to the Tsunami orphans with things they need” (Johnny Kalsi - The Dhol Foundation, UK)

 

London’s Heathrow airport flying Sri Lankan was busy, especially with The Dhol Foundation’s luggage... not their drums though! “We’ve been shopping for the Tsunami hit children. The orphanage beckons us, as we will perform and give clothes, books and toys.” Upon landing, 1st stop - the studio of Sri Lanka’s top musicians - Bathiya & Santhush - “We aim to make youngsters look up to Sri Lankan musicians for inspiration”.


           
 

Day 1 - “We have a lot of incentives, WOMAD has become is one of them” (Udaya Nanayakkara - Chairman of Tourist Board, Sri Lanka)

   

Interviewing Sunil of Sri Lanka’s prominent Baila (Portuguese influenced dance music) group ‘The Gypsies’, in their studio was followed by speaking to Sri Lankan Soul singer Ashanthi - all agreeing that Sri Lanka has such talent that needs to be brought into the international market. Bishops College auditorium in Colombo hosted the 1st WOMAD concert, an eclectic mix of a traditional Sri Lankan Kandian dance ensemble led by famed Ravibandu Vidyapathy, featuring eminent percussionist Nesan Thiagarajan on South Indian Kanjira and Thavil. Sri Lanka’s superstar rapper Iraj of Ranidu & Ill Noize popped in. As the crowds watched in absolute quiet, Iranian collective, the Chenirani Zarb Trio, they then rocked in their seats to energetic Cote D’Ivore group, Yelemba D’Abidjan and seemed sad that the performance didn’t carry on for many more hours.


          
              
           
 

Day 2 - “Unity is diversity through music” (Nesan Thiagarajan - Illustrious Percussionist, Sri Lanka)

 

Kandy was the next stop, a nostalgia infused trip on the luxurious steam hauled ‘Viceroy’ locomotive, with the ‘Commonwealth Baton’ relay team from Australia who travel the world for a year and a day with this light sabre like baton. Highlights were the royal reception in Kandy, alongside a peek at the resting place of Buddha’s tooth, covered in layers of gold, at the sacred Temple of the tooth. Peradeniya University was the prestigious venue for the acoustic ‘lantern lit’ WOMAD stage. Students and tourists alike enjoyed The Dhol Foundation, Yelemba D’Abidjan and Ravibandu’s ensemble. Says Ravibandu: “My dance form originates from cultural Kandy and some of my father’s (Somabandu Vidyapathy) wall sculptures are still impeccably kept in the lecture halls of this esteemed university.”


               
 

Day 3 - “Percussion as it is meant to be heard” (Steve Field - WOMAD, UK)

 

The golden mile is a stretch of gorgeous natural golden sandy beaches in Negambo. As the sun set, the stage was lit by lanterns, to a bustling beach full with people sipping fresh fruit cocktails and paddling in the warm sea. The Drummers of Burundi took energy to a new level with their 25-35kg drums and UK based Japanese maestro, Joji Hirota & his Taiko drummers thrilled, while Ravibandu’s ensemble colourfully danced away to the delighted onlookers. “This is a lovely setting, prefect in nature for our percussion to carry, with no mikes or electric mixers”, said Joji.


            
 

Day 4 - “A beautiful island with great people” (Billy Cobham - famed as the world’s greatest drummer, USA)

 

Colombo city bustled for the highly anticipated weekender of drumming at Galle Face Green. Next to the well known beach was a ‘Global village’ of stalls, the WOMAD trademark. Over 100,000 people at police count gathered for the extravaganza. The Drummers of Burundi opened, ‘The Bays’ from UK enthralled with their dance flavoured set and Joji Hirota wowed. The main audience response however came when The Dhol Foundation took their Bhangra beats to stage - wild screaming, dancing and ovation followed. Billy Cobham and Cuba’s Asere kept it flowing. Trilok Gurtu’s almost on the spot conducting led to a finale never before seen - the master drummers of the world from Japan to Africa, with Nitin Sarkar and Trilok giving intricate Indian rhythms in Indian Konokkol fashion (saying the rhythmic syllables into flowing patterns), all performing in unison on the same stage! 

                             

                            

Day 5 - “Music equals Oneness, it’s a 2 way street” (Trilok Gurtu - The pinnacle of East West percussion composition, India/Germany)


                           


The final concert day dawned to bright sunshine and breakfast at the Hilton with young Miss Sri Lanka, exotic beauty, Anarkalli Jay, aspiring Bollywood actress and eloquent ambassador for the country - “We have so much to offer, from the best food to brilliant cricket”, she muses. Trilok Gurtu - the genius musician turned out to be chilled and extremely humorous, giving rhythmic syllables and candid words of controversial wisdom - “some musicians are like politicians, very few are honest - money talks.” The overwhelming Drummers of Burundi, Singapore’s colourful Wicked Aura Batucada, Colombia’s passionate Totу La Momposina y sus Tambores, awesome Yelemba D'Abidjan and of course the native dancers of Ravibandu’s group, which includes his son, enchanted the 100,000 strong crowd once again. Another finale to remember, this time with 2 drum kits from Billy Cobham, Guyanese Indian, Andy Gangadeen of The Bays and the Dhol of all Dhols, with Johnny from The Dhol Foundation joining all the others on stage to crowds begging for more, the crescendo performed to pure musical ecstasy.





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